The impact of Bodegas Zárate on Galicia cannot be understated. Founded in 1707, the estate sidles up along the lower reaches of the Umia River, where the cool climate, sloping weathered granite vineyards are translated via the grapes of the native grapes of the region. Chiefly amongst those grapes, of course, is the bracingly fresh and aromatic Albariño, a grape intrinsically associated with Bodegas Zárate.

In 1953, Ernesto Zárate initiated the Albariño Festival in the region’s capital of Cambdos. infamously, he withdrew his wine from the festival’s competition after winning first place three years in a row, vowing not to re-enter until another grower matched his accomplishment. As of today, none have.

Seventh-generation Eulogio Pomares runs this historic bodega today, continuing the legacy of quality started by his ancestors. His farming is almost fully biodynamic, and he works the soil manually, utilizing cover crops and his own herbal teas for vine treatments. All new plantings are massale selections from the estate’s oldest vines, and fermentations are native. His close relationship with the vineyards is evident, and impressive; practicing natural viticulture in Spain’s coolest and wettest winegrowing region is a challenge, but one Eulogio has mastered.

While Albariño remains at the fore of Galicia and the winery, and Eulogio has focused on the particularities of site and microclimate through the grape, his vision isn’t limited to this grape; he has also been instrumental in the recovery of Galicia’s once dominant red varieties. Small lot productions of Espadeiro, Caiño Tinto and Loureiro Tinto rank amongst Galicia’s finest, and have developed their own cult followings.

Very specially, Pomares farms Rias Baixas’ oldest documented Albariño vineyard. The pre-phylloxera El Palomar was planted in 1850, and the estate holds ancient Loureiro Tinto and Caiño Tinto vines as well.